The orange wines of Crete are the latest viticultural trend. This is interesting for many reasons, mainly because of the ancient traditions and unique processes for creating these aromatic and intense wines.
Orange wines are a type of white wine produced here in Crete and elsewhere. They apply the same maturation and technical processes as red wines. The prolonged maceration process and the use of crushed grape skins and seeds are responsible for the wine type’s light tannic body and intensity of aromas. Other ancient practices also account for the uniqueness of orange wines.
At the famous Lyrarakis Winery, the Assyrtiko-Vidiano Orange is created by macerating grapes for seven days and post-fermentation. After this, the wine is stored in concrete tanks for ten months to develop its complex flavours. This Heraklion Prefecture winery began in 1966 with the revival of local varieties.
Crete winemakers are expanding on these wines by diversifying types and processes; for instance, Chania Prefecture’s Dourakis Winery’s Romeiko Orange de Noir 2019 is of medium body with intense aromas of orange peel, lotus, bergamot, and almond, with more subtle oxidizing flavours. On the palate, this bitter orange, citrus, and sweet bergamot.
For the discerning oenophile, the orange wines of Crete were first produced by incomparable organic Winery Stilianou (at left), which is south of Heraklion near Kounavi. For this report, I called Ioannis Stilianou to ask about his process for producing the “Great Mother” amber made from the Vidiano variety. This complex wine has a vibrant acidity from the winery’s terroir and the long skin fermentation.
His process differs slightly from that of the other winemakers on Crete in that the macerating process lasts 20-40 days. The wine also ferments in the bottle for at least one year, according to Stilianou. The winemaker is most famous for this white/dry Theon Dora, heralded by the New York Times’s Eric Asimov in 2018, and for the Great Mother Red Mandilaria (2020 publication).
Ioannis Stiliano told Club Oenologique Magazine: “The white wine is a paean to tradition and terroir; a bracing mix of bitter lemon, honey and happy Granny Smith apples.”
His words indemnify all that has been said about the Vidiano variety’s exciting versatility. The grapes have plenty of texture and generous fruit flavours mixed with a unique mineral element. The bright acidity and terroir of Crete have spurred winemakers to experiment with these orange wines and even sparkling styles. It will be interesting to taste/discover this year’s vintages.
