- Three remote beaches in southern Heraklion are perfect for late August dips
- Accessible only by boat or rough roads—far from the tourist crowds
- Aspes beach: black sand, sea caves, and surreal silence
- Kaminaki: grey pebbles, wild cliffs, and a secret canyon
- Koudoumas: a monk’s beach with no shops, no noise—just peace
- Bring supplies, respect the silence, and prepare for unforgettable swims
Aspes: The Black Jewel of Asterousi
If fairytales had beaches, Aspes would be one of them—just with black sand instead of sugar. Tucked into the raw cliffs of the Asterousia Mountains, this beach lies 58 km south of Heraklion and four kilometers east of the fishing village of Treis Ekklisies, its closest access point by sea.
Getting there? Forget walking. The only way in is by boat, usually a small one tied with ropes high up on the rocks—forming a nautical spiderweb that is somehow always picturesque.
Aspes changes size with the mood of the sea. On calm days, you get a whole beach; on windy ones, the shoreline disappears like a shy hermit. The black coarse sand, high stone walls, and geometric sea caves look almost manmade—except nature’s hand is the only sculptor here.
Kaminaki: Not White, Not Crowded, Just Perfect
Also called the “White Beach” (ironically), Kaminaki is another isolated stretch, hidden where the Pervolianos Gorge kisses the Libyan Sea. Like its dark-sand sister, Aspes, just a kilometer away, Kaminaki is wild and remote—reachable by boat. The pebble beach is soft grey, not white, but stands in visual contrast to Aspes.
Framed by jagged cliffs and dry Cretan gorges, the area is a rugged dream for loners, spearfishers, and those who prefer their swims without background music.
If you are lucky (and local), you might run into families from Treis Ekklisies taking a lazy cruise over in their boats. A few hundred meters west, there is a second, less exciting beach called Agio Pnevma, but it rarely steals the show.
Koudoumas: The Monk’s Beach
Forget beach bars and sunbeds—Koudoumas is where the monastic spirit meets the sea. Located 74 km south of Heraklion and accessible only via a dirt road that plummets 1,000 meters in altitude from Sternes village, this beach sits below the Monastery of Koudoumas, a sacred spot carved into the foothills of Mount Kofinas.
You drive. You descend. You question your life choices. And then—you arrive.
In front of the monastery, a flawless pebble beach greets you with icy blue waters and utter serenity. No shops. No crowds. Just the distant whisper of waves and, if you are lucky, a monk’s smile.
Camping is allowed, but with rules: be discreet, be respectful, and leave no trace. On the eastern side of the beach, you will find caves—nature’s version of five-star glamping, with built-in shade for midday lounging.
