When a capital-class warship drops anchor in Souda Bay, it makes a good photograph and a complicated day for the local calendar. The HMS Prince of Wales — sleek, enormous, and built to move jets and helicopters — has been visiting the naval base with increasing regularity. For travelers, this is one of those moments that mixes spectacle with logistics: an impressive sight from the right viewpoint, and a reason to plan.
First, the practicalities. Souda Bay is the gateway to Chania, five to fifteen minutes by car from the Venetian harbour, depending on traffic. If the base has an active visit or there are demonstrations in the town square (the Agora), expect increased police presence, some road checks, and occasional changes to bus timetables. That is not the end of the world — it is simply Crete doing what it does best: being dramatic while keeping people fed. Give yourself extra time for arrivals and departures on days when Navy ships are in port.
If you want a photo, the safest and most scenic viewpoints are the Nea Chora seafront and the breakwater at Souda town. From the Venetian fortifications in Chania you can capture the outline of a carrier against the light, and the walk along the old harbour gives you lenses, coffee and a proper Cretan pastry afterwards — which you will need. Remember: access to the naval base itself is restricted. Do not try to get closer than the public shoreline or the authorized viewing platforms.
You may also encounter political energy. Local committees and unions occasionally organize peaceful gatherings in the Agora or near the base entrance to voice their opposition to foreign warships calling at Souda. For visitors, this is a reminder to be respectful. These demonstrations are part of civic life here — they are loud, local, and sometimes full of creative banners — but they are not aimed at tourists. Maintain a courteous distance, ask permission before photographing people, and refrain from getting between demonstrators and the police. The mood in Chania will remain hospitable as long as visitors behave like guests.
There are silver linings for travelers. Ship calls fill hotels and keep cafés and tavernas open during the shoulder season. If your trip falls in a quieter month, a naval visit can mean extra tavern options and livelier evenings. On the other hand, if you prefer solitude, check the news and pick a day off the schedule — early mornings on the outer beaches or a dawn visit to Balos or Elafonisi will reward you with peace.
For an easy half-day when the bay is busy: start at the Venetian harbour for breakfast, walk the sea wall toward the old lighthouse, catch a town bus to Souda for a harbor view, then return for museums — the Maritime Museum and the Archaeological Museum are both calm counterpoints to the spectacle outside. If transport is disrupted, local taxis are plentiful and the routes are short; negotiate the fare in advance if public services have temporary detours.
Finally, a modest piece of advice: travel lightly with curiosity and carry respect with you. Souda’s role in modern geopolitics coexists with olive groves, kafeneia, and a community that reads its own history aloud. You can watch a carrier and still gain a little more understanding about the place that hosts it.
