Someone thought it was a good idea to rent out two of the last genuinely free beaches in the Cyclades and only stopped when people started shouting.
The plan was simple in that disturbingly familiar way. The Finance Ministry — which has taken on the peculiar role of turning “public coastline” into “commercial opportunity” — had moved to lease out sections of Pori and Italida on Άνω Κουφονήσι. Koufonissi is a small island in the South Cretan Sea, lying 3.5 miles south of Cape Goudouras and about 10 miles southeast of Makrigialos, isolated, wind-shaped, and closer to Africa in spirit than to the bustle of the mainland.
Five hundred square meters on each beach. Sun loungers. Umbrellas. And, because why stop there, an interested developer also wanted beach bars. Of course they did.
Because apparently, when you see sand, you see potential seating capacity.
The island is part of the European Natura 2000 network, meaning it is officially recognized as environmentally protected. In theory, that designation implies restraint. In practice, it operates more like a polite suggestion.
Environment Ministry officials reportedly objected only to the beach bars, not to carving sections of protected coastline into rentable rectangles. One cannot help but admire the precision of that compromise. “No cocktails, but by all means, monetize the sand.”
The backlash came swiftly from local authorities in Νάξος, which administratively oversees Koufonissi and the smaller islands of Iraklia, Schinoussa, and Donoussa. Municipal officials were horrified — and, more importantly, vocal.
Local authorities do not actually have the power to block leasing decisions made by the Finance Ministry. The structure is such that beaches can be tendered off from Athens. At the same time, the communities that live with the consequences are left to issue press statements.
Some of the Beaches and Landscapes of Koufonissi
Chiliaderfia Beach
A white-rock cove at the southeastern edge of the island, formed beneath Cape Trachili and known for its pale cliffs, freshwater spring, and dramatic 100-meter drop where birds of prey nest. Once, it was briefly made famous by a royal yacht anchorage.
Asprougas Beach
A beach on the southern coast is named after its soft white clay. Known for natural mud, fossil-rich surroundings, shallow waters, and ancient Roman carvings etched into seaside rocks.
Kamares Beach
Near the Roman theatre and ruins of ancient Lefki, this beach is famous for its natural stone arches and underwater architectural fragments visible while snorkeling.
Elia Desert
An unexpected inland sand-dune landscape in the center of the island. A rare micro-desert ecosystem with wind-shaped shrubs, lizards, and one solitary ancient olive tree.
Prosfora Beach
A large southeastern beach facing the open sea toward Africa. Soft sand, rocky seabed ideal for snorkeling, and views toward a small islet said to resemble a round offering loaf.
Anemertia Beach
Stretching along the eastern side of the island, with sandy sections in the north and rockier areas toward the south. Sparse shade and a small jetty for boats.
Pigadi Beach
Located near the chapel of Saint Nicholas on the northern coast. Small sandy and pebbled coves beside the island’s only well.
Papalouka Beaches
Two adjacent sandy beaches southwest of the Roman theatre, separated by a narrow pale rock formation. Named after the papaloukas plant that grows in the sand.
Greo Beaches
Formed around the island’s easternmost cape beneath a 64-meter layered rock formation. Beautiful sandy coves shaped by the strong northeastern winds.
Perasma Beach
A small sandy beach beneath cliffs near Saint Nicholas chapel. Once connected by a narrow shepherd’s passage that has now disappeared.
The ministry scrapped the leasing process, and Pori and Italida will remain freely accessible — for now — without neat rows of loungers redefining what “public beach” means.
