In Greece, mussel farmers face a desperate situation as changing climate conditions severely impact their harvests. Many report finding their ropes filled with empty, cracked shells during the harvest season.
This marks the second occurrence in three years where record sea temperatures devastate mussel yields in northern Greece, particularly alarming farmers who witnessed a 90% drop in productivity for 2024.
“The damage is done,” Ilias Hatzichristodoulou, president of the Pieria Chamber of Commerce, told eKathimerini. “We are working closely with the Ministry of Rural Development to secure immediate compensation for the mussel farmers. We have already approached the government in a coordinated effort, as special support measures will be essential for the industry in 2025, when there will be no production,” he added.
The devastation experienced predicts a complete loss for the upcoming year, leaving mussel farmers anxious about their future income, as mussel farming is their sole livelihood. Greece ranks as the fifth-largest mussel producer in Europe, with over 60% of its exports originating from Pieria, a region capable of producing over 10,500 tons of mussels annually from approximately 1,685 hectares of sea.
Mussel farming began there in 1987 with expertise borrowed from Italy. Local fishermen transitioned to mussel farming due to favorable conditions enabling rapid growth, reaching market size in less than nine months.
The long-line floating mussel cultivation system started in 1987, leading to the establishment of a legal marine park in Pieria with collaboration from local authorities and the Ministry of Development. This park contributes to over 60% of Greece’s mussel exports. The sea park, the largest legally sanctioned, boasts 22-24 operations in Imathia and another 20 in Thessaloniki. The annual turnover consists of over 10,500 tons, and though prices were low at 0.40 euros per kilo two years ago, improvements in production conditions have raised prices to 0.80 euros or 1 euro.
Despite comparisons to Italian, French, and Spanish mussel cultivation, Greece’s waters take pride in producing superior mussels. The main aim is to encourage Greeks to consume locally produced Pierian mussels since 95% of the yield exports are primarily to France, Italy, and Spain. Plans are underway to reduce exports and increase domestic consumption.
Mussels hold significant nutritional value and are known aphrodisiacs. The distinct quality of Greek mussels depends on the nutrients brought in by the rivers Galikos, Axios, Loudias, and Aliakmonas, which flow into the Thermaic Gulf. Collectively, these rivers create a unique plankton-rich environment critical for mussel nourishment.
According to the Hellenic Aquaculture Producers Organization, in 2021, Greece’s aquaculture production exceeded 619 million euros in value, ranking third in Europe after France and Spain. Greece remains a main Mediterranean mussel producer, mainly through small family businesses that export almost all of their 20,000-ton annual yield.
The sector faces challenges due to climate change, especially since most Greek mussel farms are concentrated in one area, amplifying the impact of extreme conditions seen in other European countries like Spain. In the small town of Kumina in Zakalka, the future looks bleak for about 100 mussel-farming families. They seek state compensation for their debts, with some considering factory jobs.
Climate change poses a considerable threat. This year, water temperatures reached 30°-32°C at 30 meters depth, surpassing the 26°C tolerance of mussels, causing anxiety over future productions. Like other Mediterranean countries, Greece is very exposed to climate change, leading to unusually high temperatures, severe droughts, and wildfires affecting varied crops, including chestnuts, apples, and cherries. Experts predict increasingly severe weather patterns linked to global warming could also endanger aquaculture.
In July, heatwaves pushed sea temperatures in the Thermaic Gulf (Gulf of Thessaloniki), a major mussel-producing area, above 30°C, which is lethal to mussels. Greece last experienced significant mussel losses in 2021.