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Rijeka Crnojevića, a Montenegrin Destination for Oenophiles

Rijeka Crnojevića is Montenegro’s go-to destination for green hikes and romantic escapes. It is a picturesque town on the shores of Lake Skadar, by the namesake river, which springs from the Obod Cave, about three kilomenters hike from the settlement.

Located at the northwestern end of Lake Skadar (Skadarsko jezero), the Obod Cave (Obodska Pećina) has an opening 23 m in diameter and 14 m high, large enough to allow you to enter to explore it. You can hear the powerful roar of the river from the entrance, which is the warning that the river’s source is not far. The entrance is hardly accessible because of large stone blocks, but it does not discourage daring spelunkers.The resurgence of the river is the main sight of the cave and parts of the entrance remain mostly dry throughout the year. In the dry season, the main gallery of Obodska Pećina ends with a lake, but after heavy rains, this will turn into a muddy river.

Rijeka Crnojevića flows from the cave for 13 km till it meets Lake Skadar, the largest freshwater lake in the Balkans, in the Skadar Lake National Park. The town, with about 200 residents, is located on the road between Podgorica and Cetinje, the historic capital of the country, a destination rich in cultural attractions, like museums, churches, and the Zetski Dom Royal Theater.

Enjoying its location close to the Cetinje (the Old Royal Capital of Montenegro, currently the official residence of the President of Montenegro), Rijeka Crnojevića is accessible by car, or by bus from Podgorica to Budva, which is not a direct line. But don’t worry: just tell the driver to drop you off at Rijeka Crnojevića. There are no hotels in this little town, but you will find accommodation in guest houses and apartments – check Airbnb to see what’s available.

From here, start exploring the wine trail Rijeka Crnojevića. Apolo Tours offer guided excursions in this area, with stops at a family vineyard and honey manufacture, where you can taste local wines, brandy, and honey, paired with small bites, and accompanied by the sounds of a guitar.

Another good agency to guide you on the wine route is Outdoor & More. They organize individual and group wine tastings, as well as visits to wine cellars and vineyards.

Besides organized wine tours, you can also enjoy wines in restaurants and taverns, or at your guest house. For example, the Estate & Winery San Duyevo is a beautiful country house. However, it is about three kilometers from Rijeka Crnojevića, in Dujeva, but it is great if you travel with children. The house is surrounded by a beautiful vineyard, which gives you privacy and pleasant views. Naturally, they have wine tastings. Another good choice is the Honey & Wine Farm Jablan for wine and honey tastings, but also for accommodation and delicious home cooked meals.

Besides the wine route, you will also enjoy hiking around the town, or, if you like longer activities outdoors you can hike from Rijeka Crnojevića to Virpazar, which is one of the favorite pastimes of travelers familiar with the area. As you read at the beginning of our story, you can also go spelunking. Besides Obodska Pećina, you can also visit Lipska Pećina, which is officially open for tourists since 2015. It is one of the largest caves in Montenegro, and it is accessible for group visits. There are several other interesting caves in the Skadar Lake National Park, where you can also go cycling.

The Skadar Lake National Park organizes bird watching tours, but if you would rather enjoy observing the winged creatures on your own, there are four bird-watching towers on Stanaj, Radus, Plavnica, and Zabljacke. The area is rich in cultural attractions, including churches, archaeological sites, and fortresses. You can enjoy a boat tour on the lake, or stop by a local fishing settlement for rustic meals and homemade wine. In fact, most families living in this part of Montenegro grow their own grapes and have wine cellars so you can always taste something different. Please note that alshtough Lake Skadar is a great attraction for hikers and nature lovers, camping is not allowed within the borders of the national park.

Categories: Montenegro
Aleksandr Shatskih:
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